Guided key check
One highlighted key at a time, row by row
Press this key
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code --time left 10.0 s
Press Start. The wizard highlights one key at a time; press it before the countdown ends.
Press Start and the wizard lights up one key at a time. Press it before the countdown ends; a key that never answers is marked dead, and a key that answers with the wrong code can be marked mis-mapped. At the end you get a copyable report to send to a repair shop or paste into a warranty claim. A quick pass through the keyboard ghosting test shows whether the problem is your keyboard or your settings.
One highlighted key at a time, row by row
Press this key
--
code --time left 10.0 s
Press Start. The wizard highlights one key at a time; press it before the countdown ends.
Dead keys
none so far
Mis-mapped keys (expected → received)
none so far
0 / 0 keys checked (0%)
A key that never responds is easy to miss until a password fails. This dead key test is a free online keyboard tester that checks every key from your browser, with no download, on any computer or laptop. Press a key and see at once whether it registers.
Click the page once so it has browser focus, then press each key in turn. The virtual keyboard map reacts in real time: working keys turn green, a key you hold shows red, and any key that stays dark never reached the browser. A stats panel reports active keys, total presses and scan rate, and the Reset button clears the board for a fresh run. The keyboard rollover test runs entirely in your browser, so nothing you press is stored or sent anywhere.
Typing in Notepad hides the top row and tells you nothing about a stuck one, so test every key here instead. Use this keyboard checker as a keyboard test online whenever you need to test keyboard behaviour: test your keyboard before a long session, run one keyboard test after a repair, and check keyboard health on a secondhand model. You can also test key by key if only one feels off.
A dead key gives no response when pressed. Double keys type two characters from one press, a common sign of typing problems. Ghosting happens when you hold several keys and some are dropped, which hurts most in fast-paced gaming. If a gaming keyboard claims full rollover, hold many keys together and confirm every one stays active; software cannot fix a board that drops key combinations. The keyboard key drop test runs entirely in your browser, so nothing you press is stored or sent anywhere.
N-key rollover means each key is read separately while others stay held down. Most office boards manage only a few at once, so try pressing three or four keys together and watching all of them stay lit.
My question is narrow: is the D on a tenkeyless board really failing, or is it the typing app? I open the tester, click the page, and press D exactly 25 times, counting aloud.
The stats panel logs 17 registered presses out of 25, a 68% hit rate, and the key flickers between green and dark. A fully dead key never lights; this one is intermittent, which points at dust or a worn contact rather than a broken switch. Every neighbour (S, F, E, C) lit on all 25 presses, so the fault is local to that key.
I tip the board, use compressed air, and rerun the same 25 presses:
| Run | Registered | Hit rate |
|---|---|---|
| Before cleaning | 17 of 25 | 68% |
| After cleaning | 24 of 25 | 96% |
| After refitting the keycap | 25 of 25 | 100% |
The number to watch is the single miss in the second run. One miss in 25 would be tolerable on a spare board, but I type all day, so I treat anything below 100% as a failing switch to watch, not a pass. The keycap refit mattered most: the stem was seated crooked.
Next comes the check I care about as a gamer. I hold W, A, S, D, Q and E together, which is six regular keys, and all six stay lit. Adding R drops one, because this board reports only six regular keys at a time, the standard limit of the USB boot protocol (modifiers like Shift and Ctrl sit outside that count). That is a design limit, so replacing a key would not change it.
One edge case: the Fn key never appears on the map, because the firmware handles it before the browser sees it. A dark Fn is therefore not proof of a dead key, so test it by watching what the F-row does when you hold it. Judging by the rerun, the board stays in service, and I will repeat the 25-press run monthly.
An unresponsive key that stays dark on every setup points to a hardware issue. Start with the cheap causes:
If the key still fails, check your warranty. Brands such as Dell, Asus and HP cover faults for a set period, and a replacement keyboard costs less than a repair at most price points. A stale driver can mimic a fault, so update your software too.
A wrong letter often means the keyboard layout is set incorrectly; pick English QWERTY in settings and test again. If nothing lights up, click the page first, because the tester needs focus. Ergonomics matters too: a worn board is worth replacing.
The tool runs in Chrome, Edge and Safari on Windows and Mac, with no extra setup. The keys you do not have simply stay grey.
Press the key. It turns red while held and green once released, which confirms the browser received it. A key that stays dark may be unresponsive or damaged.
A dead key gives no signal, so its square on the virtual keyboard never changes color no matter how hard you press.
The page usually lacks browser focus. Click anywhere on it first, then press again, and disable extensions that capture keyboard shortcuts.
Ghosting is when a keyboard drops some keys while several are held at once. Hold three or more keys together and check that each stays lit.
N-key rollover means every key is read independently even when many are held at the same time, which matters for fast-paced gaming.
Clean around the keycap with compressed air, refit the keycap and try another cable or USB port. If it stays dark, the switch is likely dead, so check your warranty or replace the key or keyboard.
Choose the layout that matches your board: 60% has the core keys only, 65% adds arrows, 75% adds the function row, TKL drops the numpad and 100% includes everything.